![]() So I personalty don't need to do water changes as I have a lot of filtration and a very natural setting with plants like flag iris, parrots feather and dwarf catskill which I use as filters in what I called a bog filter, This is a plastic grill with the plants (except parrot's feather) attached to the grill top 3 inches below water line and the roots are left free below the grate that is 10 to 16 inches in depth. I run this through a 3 phase filter to rid chems and other nasties. My pond has a water leveller that opens a line to add water that is lost automatically. I also live in a dry climate which adds to water loss. Mine looses about 3 to 5 percent a day to due evaporation, water falls and plant load. Never a silly question, just an opening to learn more Water changes will be required unless you have a well balanced pond. Bubbles who I refereed to in an earlier post is actually a Shubunkin, and the other two are fancies. Shubunkin comets are very beautiful IMO and quite hardy. Comets can get quite fancy in coloration which I prefer over commons. The minnows or reds you could go with quite a few, plus they breed like rabbits lol. If herons or other birds of prey are a possible problem then once again pond placement is crucial.Īs for your water I wouldn't worry too much as both plants and fish will do ok.Ĭommons/comets can get quite large so that limits it to maybe 6-8. Pest detectors using water or noise bursts are more favourable or making the area of pond more secure such as a trellis overhang and making sure the pond edges are stepped down making access for most critters hard. Using netting always takes away from the natural setting of a pond so how you build it and where you place all plays a major factor. Proper filtration, cleaning, shading using plants or other such as trellis will keep this to a minimum. Green water happens because of water being too high in nutrients, stagnant, dirty and location to sunlight. This type of maintenance depends on the filtration units used, but I suggest weekly inspections to determine what works best for you and your setup. My mechanical filtration DIY units require cleaning once a month. My pond does an automatic water change weekly of 10% as I have massive natural (plant filtration during spring/summer/fall) and mechanical filtration. (read my pond thread for more details) During the winter the deepest part of my pond never drops below 40 and is stable around mid 40's. ![]() My 4000 gallon pond has a turnover rate of 10 times an hour as I have some very large koi and my install is quite intricate. Even though koi and goldfish are cold water species below 40 degrees can be a problem and for fancies below 50 can be an issue for their health. During the winter all my pumps are shut down and only an aerator is running. I use two 750 watt deicers, one floats and the other sits at the deepest part of the pond. Using pond deicers to keep part of the water open during ice over helps bad gases escape. I live more north than you do and winters get even colder. Ponds need good change over and aeration to have a healthy pond structure. If your going to use a uv clarifier or waterfall, then 4 times an hour is a minimum turnover rate IMO. Pumps should be able to turn over the pond volume at least 2 times an hour but I prefer higher. Secondly is to determine how many fish you wish to keep and then build a pond that can support them, not just showcase them.Īs for filters, there are many full kits or diy filters with pumps. Too sunny a location can be a problem with small ponds but not impossible. A successful pond is one that is well thought out beyond just the hole.ġst thing is to determine your placement and what factors are there that can affect the pond environment. ![]() My water is very hard and alkaline, ph of 8.3 or so, gh and kh 300ppm or higher.īuilding ponds is not just about making a hole in the ground and adding water. Any maintenance on a pond other than the filter? and adding in new water.Ĩ. Would I use one in the summer? Set it to 60 or something?Ħ. I live in Wisconsin so winters are very cold. Heater? Just for winter? Just to keep the bottom area from freezing and allowing oxygen in. Best way to cycle a pond? My media from my 33g tank?Ĥ. Good outdoor filter, perhaps a fountain type (would that be separate?)ģ. We have had some fountains but that is as far as my knowledge goes and we always have the issue of green water in them.Ģ. Will you help me out? I am a total pond newbie and as much as I know about indoor aquariums I know nothing about ponds. I didn't see a sticky for the basics I will need. So after my indoor aquariums I have decided to start a small (100g or so) fancy goldfish pond. ![]()
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